News – Watches of Switzerland https://www.watchswiss.com Wed, 04 Sep 2024 02:00:44 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.5 TAG Heuer Carrera: Racing Inspired Luxury Timepieces https://www.watchswiss.com/perpetual/tag-heuer-carrera-racing-inspired-luxury-timepieces/ Wed, 04 Sep 2024 00:03:59 +0000 https://www.watchswiss.com/?post_type=cpt_news&p=76116 In the world of luxury sports watches, few collections can boast a…

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In the world of luxury sports watches, few collections can boast a legacy as rich and influential as the TAG Heuer Carrera. Born from a passion for speed and precision, the Carrera has become a symbol of endurance, style, and innovation, deeply embedded in the world of motorsport. For well over half a century, this iconic line has set the benchmark for racing chronographs, blending cutting-edge technology with timeless design. Whether you’ve been around the track a few times or are just earning your racing stripes, the Carrera’s storied history and modern-day relevance offer a captivating journey through the evolution of luxury timepieces. Join us as we delve into the origins of the TAG Heuer Carrera collection, its outsized impact on modern watchmaking and what makes a Carrera, a Carrera.

Born in 1932 in Bern (Switzerland), Jack Heuer is the last member of the Heuer family to manage the manuafacture. He is also its most famous leader.

The Jack Heuer Effect

Before we get to the Carrera collection, we’d be remiss not to talk about its originator. There’s a good chance you’re already familiar with the name Jack Heuer. The great-grandson of TAG Heuer’s founder Edouard Heuer, Jack is a pivotal figure in the history of the brand and the watchmaking industry at large. Born in 1932, Jack Heuer joined the family business in the 1950s and quickly rose to prominence due to his visionary approach to watchmaking and marketing.

He became the company’s CEO in 1962, at a time when the brand was looking to solidify its position as a leader in sports watches and chronographs. Under his leadership, TAG Heuer introduced some of its most iconic models, including the Carrera in 1963, which was directly inspired by Jack’s passion for motorsport and his drive to create a chronograph that was both functional and stylish. His keen understanding of the needs of professional drivers and his ability to blend precision engineering with modern design set the stage for TAG Heuer’s enduring success in the luxury watch market.

In 1985, Heuer was acquired by Techniques d’Avant Garde (TAG). Over a decade after the Carrera was discontinued, it was reintroduced in 1996, inspired by the original ref. 2447. Featuring the same clean design that made it popular over thirty years earlier, this relaunch marked a new chapter for the racing chronograph.

Beyond his impact on TAG Heuer, Jack Heuer made significant contributions to the wider watch Jack Heuer’s contributions extended beyond TAG Heuer, as he played a crucial role in the advancement of watchmaking through his development of the Calibre 11 movement. Additionally, his innovative approach to brand partnerships and sponsorships in motorsport elevated TAG Heuer’s global prominence. making industry. He was instrumental in the development of the Calibre 11, one of the first automatic chronograph movements, which revolutionized the industry in 1969. He also pioneered the concept of brand partnerships and sponsorships in motorsport, most notably with Formula One teams and drivers, which helped to elevate TAG Heuer’s global profile.

That’s one of the reasons the Carrera has graced the wrist of so many famous drivers, including Juan Manuel Fangio, Aryton Senna, Niki Lauda, Clay Regazzoni, and more recently, Max Verstappen, Fernando Alonso and Jenson Button. Another reason, of course, is because the Carrera was more than up to the challenge of withstanding the extreme conditions of Formula One motor racing. Not to mention they looked and functioned great off track as well. Just ask Brad Pitt. The Hollywood superstar has been seen wearing the TAG Heuer Carrera on multiple occasions, demonstrating the watch’s appeal beyond the racing circuit.

Ryan Gosling never stops challenging himself to transcend his discipline, just like TAG Heuer in its own field. An icon of cool, geared towards action.

It’s no exaggeration to say then that Jack Heuer’s innovative marketing strategies and his commitment to advancing watch technology left an indelible mark on the industry, earning him a place as one of the most influential figures in 20th-century watchmaking. His legacy continues to inspire the brand today, as TAG Heuer remains synonymous with precision, innovation, and a deep connection to the world of motorsport.

But what makes a Carrera, a Carrera?

Since 1991, TAG Heuer is a proud partner of the Carrera Panamericana, a gruelling race stretching across the unforgivable Mexican landscape. First held in 1950 but cancelled in 1955, it was revived in 1988. Jack Heuer’s famous Carrera chronograph – released in 1963 – paid homage to this one-of-a-kind event.

What’s In A Name?

If you’ve ever wondered if the Carrera takes its name from an equally famous car, you would be partially right. The collection was actually named after the Carrera Panamericana, a legendary and notoriously dangerous car race held in Mexico during the 1950s. The race, which spanned over 2,000 miles, was one of the most challenging in the world, and Jack Heuer was inspired by the spirit of adventure and precision that the event represented.

That’s why, from its inception, the Carrera was designed with professional drivers and motorsport enthusiasts in mind. Jack Heuer’s vision was to create a chronograph that was not only reliable and precise but also easy to read and use under the intense conditions of motor racing. The result was a clean, legible design that emphasized functionality without sacrificing style. Impressively, this same design has remained remarkably consistent over the years and incorporates a few key elements:

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph – CBS2216.BA0041

Clean and Legible Dial: One of the hallmarks of the Carrera design is its clean, uncluttered dial. The emphasis on legibility is a direct response to the needs of racing drivers, who require a watch that can be easily read at a glance. The sub-dials are well-spaced and the markers are clear, making the chronograph function straightforward to use.

Tachymeter Scale: Often integrated into the design, the tachymeter scale is a signature feature of the Carrera, used to calculate speed based on time travelled over a fixed distance. This feature is a direct nod to the watch’s motorsport roots.

Elegant Case Design: The Carrera’s case is typically sleek and modern, with a well-proportioned silhouette that combines both sporty and elegant elements. Early models featured 36mm cases, but modern versions range from 39mm to 44mm, reflecting contemporary tastes.

Panda Dials: The Carrera is known for its “panda” dials, where the sub-dials contrast sharply with the main dial. For example, a white dial with black sub-dials is a classic Carrera look that has been emulated by many other brands.

TAG Heuer movement Heuer 02.
TAG Heuer movement Heuer 02.

Heuer-02 Movement: Many modern Carrera models are powered by the in-house Heuer-02 movement, which is known for its reliability, precision, and extended power reserve of 80 hours. This movement underscores TAG Heuer’s commitment to technical excellence.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph – CBS2211.FC6545 – The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph masterfully combines heritage and modernity. While retaining the iconic Dato vintage look, it has notable technical enhancements including improved ergonomics on the case, a gracefully curved flange, and a dial with circular brushed finishing.

A Modern Masterpiece

The Carrera is widely regarded as a masterpiece of modern watch design. Its ability to blend form and function in a way that is both elegant and sporty has earned it a place among the most iconic chronographs in watchmaking history. The minimalist layout, with its focus on legibility and clean lines, is often praised for its timeless appeal.

From a technical standpoint, the TAG Heuer Carrera is lauded for its precision and durability. The introduction of in-house movements, particularly the Heuer-02, has been well-received by critics and enthusiasts alike, as it represents a significant advancement in the brand’s horological capabilities. The extended power reserve, vertical clutch, and column wheel in the Heuer-02 movement are particularly acclaimed for their performance and contribution to the smooth operation of the chronograph function.

The watch features an open caseback that showcases TAG Heuer’s in-house movement Heuer 02 listed as TH20-07, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve.

The combination of heritage, innovation, iconic design, and strong connections to motorsport culture makes the TAG Heuer Carrera a collection that resonates deeply with watch collectors. Whether they are drawn to the historical significance, technical prowess, or investment potential, collectors find Carrera watches – both new and vintage – to be a rewarding addition to their collections.

Discover The TAG Heuer Carrera At Watches Of Switzerland

The TAG Heuer Carrera stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of motorsport-inspired watchmaking, skillfully blending tradition with innovation. Its clean design, rooted in functionality and precision, continues to captivate enthusiasts and collectors alike, making it a timeless icon in the world of luxury watches. From its origins in the adrenaline-fueled Carrera Panamericana to its modern-day iterations powered by cutting-edge movements, the Carrera remains a symbol of excellence and elegance. Whether admired for its rich history, technical sophistication, or simply its stylish versatility, the Carrera is, and will always be, a celebrated masterpiece in horology.

We are delighted to be able to offer our esteemed clients full access to the TAG Heuer Carrera collection. We invite you to visit us in-store or online to discover the perfect model for you.

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Panerai Luminor vs. Radiomir: Decoding the Distinctions https://www.watchswiss.com/perpetual/panerai-luminor-vs-radiomir-decoding-the-distinctions/ Wed, 28 Aug 2024 06:09:56 +0000 https://www.watchswiss.com/?post_type=cpt_news&p=75824 Welcome to our in-depth look at Panerai, a name synonymous with horological…

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Welcome to our in-depth look at Panerai, a name synonymous with horological excellence and timeless design. Established in 1860 by the visionary Giovanni Panerai, the brand has its roots deeply embedded in the rich cultural tapestry of Florence, Italy. From its humble yet ambitious beginnings as a multifaceted establishment — a distinguished watchmaking school, workshop, and showroom – Panerai swiftly ascended to prominence within the Italian watchmaking sphere, earning a reputation for unparalleled technical mastery and a relentless pursuit of innovation. So much so that by the early part of the 20th century, Panerai had caught the attention of the Italian Royal Navy. And the rest, as they say, is history.

This legacy of craftsmanship and ingenuity continues to define Panerai as a paragon of luxury and precision in the world of fine timepieces. Today, the brand develops and crafts its movements and watches at its Neuchâtel manufacture in Switzerland, combining Italian design flair and history with Swiss horological expertise. Read on to learn more about this truly fascinating brand as we turn the spotlight on two of its most iconic and enduring collections; Radiomir and Luminor.

Panerai – The Pre-Military Years

Before Panerai began its trajectory-altering collaboration with the Italian Royal Navy, the company initially served as an educational institution where aspiring watchmakers could learn the craft. There was also a workshop where timepieces and precision instruments were manufactured and serviced, as well as a showroom that offered a selection of watches, including those from prestigious Swiss brands, to the Florentine public.

As the year’s passed, Panerai’s reputation for precision engineering and innovative craftsmanship gradually grew within Italy. The turning point came in 1916, when Panerai developed a groundbreaking luminescent material called Radiomir, which was a radium-based powder that could be applied to dials and instruments to make them visible in the dark. This innovation captured the attention of the Italian military, particularly the Royal Navy, who recognized the potential of Radiomir for use in naval instruments and watches, which required clear visibility in low-light and underwater conditions.

Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Yellow Gold – PAM01437 with full lume on display.

In short order, the Italian Royal Navy approached Panerai to develop luminous instruments and eventually specialized watches for their elite frogmen and divers. This collaboration marked the beginning of Panerai’s deep association with military timepieces, leading to the creation of the iconic Radiomir watch in 1936, designed specifically for underwater operations. Panerai’s ability to meet the rigorous demands of military specifications further solidified its reputation as a manufacturer of high-precision, durable, and reliable instruments.

Today’s Radiomir watch retains many of the features of the Ref.3646: a large cushion-shaped steel case with a diameter of 47 mm, luminescent numerals and indexes, wire lugs welded to the case and a high-quality manual mechanical movement.

The Birth of the Radiomir Prototype

The first prototype of the Radiomir watch featured a large 47mm cushion-shaped case, wire lugs for attaching a strap, and a dial coated with the luminous Radiomir substance. The design was simple, functional, and robust, with a focus on maximum legibility under water. The case was made of stainless steel, ensuring durability and resistance to corrosion, and it housed a Rolex movement, which was chosen for its reliability. This prototype proved to be a success, and the Radiomir became the standard-issue timepiece for the Italian Navy’s divers. The watch was tested rigorously under combat conditions during World War II, where its durability and legibility were crucial.

After World War II, Panerai continued to refine the Radiomir design, taking on many of the learnings gleaned from exposure to active combat. The sandwich dial, which consists of two layers—an upper layer with cutouts for the numerals and markers and a lower layer coated with luminous material—became a signature feature of the Radiomir. This design not only improved legibility but also added depth and texture to the dial, giving it a distinctive look.

Given its heritage, the Radiomir remained relatively unknown outside of military circles for many years. However, in the 1990s, after the brand was acquired by the Vendôme Group (now part of Richemont), Panerai transitioned from being a niche military supplier to a global luxury watch brand. In the process, the company began to (re)introduce its historic models, including the Radiomir, to the civilian market.

Panerai Radiomir Quaranta – PAM01292. ( With green strap)

The Modern Day Radiomir

Over the last few decades, Panerai has expanded and evolved the Radiomir collection to include a wide range of models, each offering a different interpretation of the original design. While the core elements of the Radiomir—such as the cushion-shaped case, large dial, and minimalistic design—remain consistent, Panerai has introduced various materials, complications, and sizes to cater to different tastes and preferences.

Chief among them is the Radmiomir Quaranta (or ‘forty’ in Italian), so named for the 40mm case size that defines the collection’s essence. As the most versatile and contemporary of Radiomir’s interpretations, it expresses the spirit of the original through continuous innovations. Or if you prefer something closer in size to the dimensions of the original, there’s the 45mm Radiomir Officine. Those who want to stand out from the crowd meanwhile will be hard-pressed to go past the Radiomir California, so named for its distinctive California dial that features a blend of Arabic and Roman Numerals.

Panerai Radiomir Quaranta – PAM01292.

It’s fair to say then that the Panerai Radiomir has evolved from a utilitarian military tool into a symbol of luxury and craftsmanship, while still retaining the essence of its original design. Today, the Radiomir continues to be a cornerstone of Panerai’s collection, beloved for its timeless design, robust construction, and rich history. Whether in its classic form or as a modern reinterpretation, the Radiomir remains an enduring icon in the world of fine watchmaking.

Panerai Luminor Chrono Carbotech™ Navy SEALs – PAM01419 with lume on display.

Panerai Luminor – The Next Evolution

Following the success of the Radiomir, which was introduced in the 1930s for the Italian Royal Navy’s elite underwater commandos, Panerai continued to develop and refine its military timepieces. However, as the use of radium-based luminescent materials like Radiomir became increasingly recognized as hazardous due to its radioactive nature, there was a need for a safer alternative. In response, Panerai developed a new luminescent substance called “Luminor,” which was based on tritium, a safer and more stable radioactive material. This new compound offered improved luminosity and longer-lasting glow in dark environments, making it ideal for military applications. The name “Luminor” not only referred to this innovative material but also came to represent a new generation of Panerai watches.

The evolution of the Panerai Ref. 6152/1 watch continued unabated in the 1960s. In the process of assembling the overlapping disc dials, known as sandwich dials, the use of radium-based paste disappeared, and with it the name Radiomir.

The first Luminor watch was introduced in 1950 as an evolution of the Radiomir. While it retained the iconic cushion-shaped case and minimalist dial of its predecessor, the Luminor introduced several key design enhancements that would become hallmarks of the collection.

Crown-Protecting Bridge: One of the most significant innovations of the Luminor was the introduction of the crown-protecting bridge. This distinctive lever device was designed to lock the crown in place, ensuring better water resistance and protecting it from shocks. This feature gave the Luminor its bold, instantly recognizable profile and has since become a defining element of the Panerai brand.

Stronger Lugs: Unlike the Radiomir’s wire lugs, the Luminor featured more robust, integrated lugs that were cut from the same block of metal as the case. This design change enhanced the watch’s durability and made it more suitable for the demanding conditions faced by military divers.

Increased Water Resistance: The Luminor’s design improvements, particularly the crown-protecting bridge, contributed to its superior water resistance compared to the Radiomir. This made the Luminor an even more reliable tool for the Italian Navy’s underwater operations.

Officine Panerai decided to go into to the civil watch market, launching three collections, originating from ten total references in numbered and limited editions: the 44 mm Luminor and Luminor Marina watches and the 42 mm Mare Nostrum chronograph, which drew inspiration from the historical models created for the Underwater Commandos division of the Italian Navy.

The Modern Day Luminor

As with the Radiomir, the Luminor, was only produced in limited quantities and used exclusively by military personnel for the first several decades of its existence. When Panerai decided to reposition itself as a consumer brand in the 1990s, however, the choice of model to build around was immediately clear. Panerai retained the essential characteristics of the original Luminor while incorporating modern materials and technology to appeal to a broader audience. And so, despite its relative obscurity, the Luminor quickly captured the attention of watch enthusiasts and collectors, thanks to its robust design, distinctive features, and storied military history

Distinctive and bold, the Luminor Marina Carbotech™ PAM02661

Perhaps not surprisingly the success of the Luminor in the luxury watch market has led to the expansion of the collection into various sub-lines, each offering different interpretations of the classic design. These modern Luminor watches continue to honour their military heritage while embracing contemporary horological advancements.
Among these are the Luminor Marina, which represents the core of the Luminor collection. The Luminor Marina features a clean, minimalist dial with only hour markers and hands and a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. Available in a range of metals and finishes, this model stays true to the original design ethos of the Luminor, offering rugged simplicity and functionality and is instantly recognisable on the wrist.

SubmersiblePAM02973
The Luminor Submersible PAM02973.

For serious divers, the Luminor Submersible (or Submersible as it is now known) is Panerai’s dedicated diving watch, evolving from the original Luminor’s underwater roots. These watches are equipped with advanced features such as increased water resistance (up to 300 meters), rotating dive bezels, and bold, legible dials. The Submersible models are often crafted from modern materials like titanium, ceramic, and Carbotech™, making them highly durable and resistant to harsh environments.

While the Luminor Chrono incorporates chronograph functionality into the collection, with a striking bi-compax dial layout complete with tachymetre scale around the periphery. To preserve the iconic crown-protecting bridge, the pushers for the chronograph are located on the left-hand side of the case, at 8 and 10 o’clock.
This of course serves as just a small taste of what the Panerai Luminor collection has to offer and so to discover more we invite you to visit us in-store or online.

Officine Panerai presents the P.9000 and P.2006 movements. Both calibres were developed and produced by the Florentine brand. The P.9000 calibre, primarily characterised by a 72-hour power reserve, is mounted on a series of Luminor 1950 and Radiomir models, while the P.2006 is an evolution of the P.2004 single-button chronograph calibre with the addition of a split-second function controlled by a second button at 10 o’clock.

In-House Know How

As Panerai established itself as a leading luxury watch brand, it began to invest in developing its own in-house movements, which are now featured in many of the Radiomir and Luminor models. These movements, such as the P.3000, P.9000, and P.9010 series, offer impressive power reserves (up to 8 or 10 days in some models), as well as complications like GMT functions, flyback chronographs, and tourbillons. The inner workings of these sophisticated mechanical machines are often visible via sapphire exhibition case backs, yet another subtle reminder of how far Panerai has come from its humble military roots.

The Final Word

Panerai’s journey from a small Florentine workshop to a globally revered luxury watch brand is a testament to its unwavering commitment to innovation, precision, and design excellence. From the introduction of the Radiomir in the 1930s to the evolution of the Luminor in the 1950s, and now the cutting-edge advancements seen in modern collections, Panerai continues to honour its storied past while pushing the boundaries of horology. Whether you’re drawn to the historical significance of the Radiomir, the rugged sophistication of the Luminor, or the technical prowess of Panerai’s in-house movements, each timepiece is a masterpiece that reflects the brand’s deep-rooted legacy and forward-thinking vision. For those who appreciate the fusion of tradition and innovation, Panerai remains an iconic choice in the world of fine watchmaking.

Watches of Switzerland is pleased to be an authorised partner of Panerai in Australia. We welcome you to visit us in store or online to learn more about this storied brand and discover its exceptional timepieces for yourself.

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Introducing Blancpain’s Bold New Bathyscaphe Ceramic Collection: The Pinnacle of Luxury Diving Watches https://www.watchswiss.com/perpetual/introducing-blancpains-bold-new-bathyscaphe-ceramic-collection-the-pinnacle-of-luxury-diving-watches/ Tue, 23 Jul 2024 05:00:55 +0000 https://www.watchswiss.com/?post_type=cpt_news&p=73039 Blancpain, a paragon of luxury watchmaking, has once again pushed the boundaries…

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Blancpain, a paragon of luxury watchmaking, has once again pushed the boundaries of innovation with the release of three new blacked-out versions of its celebrated Bathyscaphe ceramic line. These latest additions include the Automatic, Flyback Chronograph, and for the first time, a stunning, blue-dialled Complete Calendar (officially called the Quantième Complet Phases de Lune), all housed in hi-tech, aesthetically captivating black ceramic cases. A key highlight is the addition of a matching ceramic bracelet, a first for the Bathyscaphe line, that elevates these timepieces to unparalleled levels of sophistication and style. As always, we cover everything you need to know about these new timepieces below, so keep reading.

BlancpainFifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet 5054-0140-01S
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet 5054-0140-01S

A Legacy of Innovation and Style

The Fifty Fathoms collection, which debuted in 1953 as the first professional dive watch, laid the foundation for the Bathyscaphe line introduced in 1956. Originally designed to be a versatile daily wearer with diving capabilities, the Bathyscaphe has evolved to merge contemporary aesthetics with advanced technology. These latest additions to the Bathyscaphe collection continue this proud tradition, featuring a striking blend of vibrant colors and the mastery of ceramic craftsmanship.

A key innovation in the Fifty Fathoms line is the unidirectional rotating bezel, designed for safe time measurement underwater. This feature was inspired by a near-fatal dive experienced by Blancpain co-president Jean-Jacques Fiechter in 1952. The bezel on the new Bathyscaphe models, including the moon phase calendar, incorporates a ceramic insert with a tone that matches the colour of the dial, along with Gray Liquidmetal® for added contrast. This design ensures both aesthetic appeal and strong resistance to scratches, while retaining the distinctive “click” sound of the bezel.

Cutting-edge ceramic technology takes the Bathyscaphe line into a new dimension. The unique properties of ceramic make it an ideal material for this versatile line, which introduces a high-tech ceramic bracelet for the first time.
Cutting-edge ceramic technology takes the Bathyscaphe line into a new dimension. The unique properties of ceramic make it an ideal material for this versatile line, which introduces a high-tech ceramic bracelet for the first time.

The Full Ceramic Experience

Blancpain’s innovative use of ceramic technology is a cornerstone of the new Bathyscaphe line. Ceramic is an ideal material for luxury watches due to its durability, scratch resistance, and hypoallergenic properties. The ceramic used in this collection is nearly five times harder than stainless steel and almost four times harder than grade 5 titanium, while being 25% lighter. The complex manufacturing process involves firing the material at over 1400°C, followed by diamond machining and hand-finishing by Blancpain’s in-house experts.

The high-tech ceramic bracelet is a first for Blancpain, featuring a patented mounting system with cam-shaped pins that ensure remarkable resistance and comfort. Each link is meticulously measured and hand-finished to guarantee perfect alignment and ergonomics. The neutral black colour of the bracelet complements the design of the new Complete Calendar and the other Bathyscaphe models. There are also a variety of other strap options available, including sail cloth and NATO.

Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback - 5200-0153-01S
Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback – 5200-0153-01S

Each model in the new collection boasts a 43.6mm case, with the chronograph measuring 15.25mm thick, the calendar at 14.1mm, and the automatic diver at 13.83mm. As previously mentioned, the Complete Calendar features a sunburst blue dial, while the dial of the Flyback Chronograph pops in sunburst green with graduated colour. The Complete Calendar model is particularly noteworthy for its intricate design and functionality. While it may appear busier than a typical diving watch, it retains the unidirectional rotating bezel that is a hallmark of the Bathyscaphe line. Powered by the 6654.P4 movement, this watch offers a comprehensive suite of features including hours, minutes, seconds, day of the week, month, a central date indicator, and a moonphase.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe - 5000-0130-01S
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe – 5000-0130-01S

For those seeking something more akin to a traditional dive watch with the added appeal of a full ceramic case and bracelet, the Automatic model, with its 120-hour power reserve and more subdued sunburst black dial, is a robust choice. All three versions offer an impressive 300 meters of water resistance, making these timepieces as functional as they are stylish.

Available From Watches Of Switzerland

Here at Watches of Switzerland we are thrilled to witness the evolution of ceramic in watchmaking. Blancpain’s new Bathyscaphe Fifty- Fathoms models not only showcase the brand’s dedication to innovation but also highlight the increasing prevalence of ceramic in high-end timepieces. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a new enthusiast, these models promise to deliver exceptional performance and enduring elegance. Explore the new collection and experience the future of luxury diving watches with Blancpain. Contact us or shop online at Watches of Switzerland.

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Discover How Blancpain Expertly Restores Its Vintage Watches https://www.watchswiss.com/perpetual/blancpain-expertly-restores-its-watch/ Wed, 10 Jul 2024 06:28:00 +0000 https://www.watchswiss.com/?post_type=cpt_news&p=72110 Tucked away in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland’s heart of fine watchmaking,…

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Tucked away in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland’s heart of fine watchmaking, is a wondrous place where expert watchmakers and artisans devote their life’s work to the expert restoration of fine timepieces from bygone eras. Welcome to Blancpain’s Heritage Department, a highly specialised workshop found on the hillside above the village of Le Brassus. It is here that Blancpain both safeguards and celebrates its rich history, as well as offering an important service to its valued clients; bringing back to life some of its most exceptional creations from decades long since passed. A beloved family heirloom perhaps, or a rare find at auction, whatever the case may be, there is something almost magical about an object that – with a little expert love and attention – can continue to do the job it was first created for, irrespective the immensity of time that has passed since. Read on to learn more about the Blancpain Heritage Department.

The Blancpain Heritage Department

To put Blancpain’s heritage department into context, it’s helpful to understand that the brand’s roots are divided into two branches. The oldest dates back to the company’s founding in 1735, when Jehan-Jacques Blancpain officially registered as a watchmaker in Villeret. The second branch dates from 1859 in Le Brassus. This is where Louis-Elysée Piguet set up his workshop specialised in complicated movements. Over a century later, his heir, Jacques Piguet, would go on to buy Blancpain, initially turning it into the manufacturer for the Frédéric Piguet brand, before setting it up as separate subsidiary. Blancpain and Frédéric Piguet would later merge in 2010, but that’s a story for another day.

Well before all that though, in 1891, Louis-Elysée Piguet bought an old mill, called “Le Moulin”, located in an area known by the locals as “Le Rocher” (the rock) on the hillside just above the centre of the village of Le Brassus in the Vallée de Joux. Today, this state-of-the-art workshop is known as “The Farm”. Within these walls, Blancpain’s master watchmakers devote themselves to the grand complications for the Villeret collection, such as minute-repeaters, split-seconds chronographs, carrousels, tourbillons and ultra-complex calendars like the Equation du Temps Marchante and the Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel. The Farm also houses Blancpain’s Le Brassus decorating and engraving workshops, as well as those that deal with the decoration of components for prestigious movements.

Given the unique expertise required, it perhaps comes as no surprise then that Blancpain’s President & CEO Marc A. Hayek chose this picturesque locale as the perfect setting for his visionary heritage department, created in 2014. His goal was to preserve Blancpain’s longstanding patrimony, in particular reviving the impressive legacy of the Fifty Fathoms. A passionate diver – much like Fifty Fathoms’ creator Jean-Jacques Fichter – Hayek was immediately seduced by the charm and the incredible stories of the Fifty Fathoms, not to mention its impressive performance as a tool watch over consecutive decades. He instinctively knew that servicing the brand’s vintage pieces would be key to bringing the modern day collections to life.

Today, the vintage department is staffed by a hand-picked team of Blancpain watchmakers who not only have a passion for the expert restoration of vintage pieces but also a deep understanding and appreciation of the unique challenges in determining what should be restored, what should be replaced and what should be left as is, particularly with regards to aesthetic matters. Questions which generally do not arise in the more routine servicing of modern pieces. To fit with Hayek’s vision of returning the vintage watches that pass through these doors to as close to original as possible, these watchmakers also need to master the increasingly rare skills of component fabrication by hand.

It is worth noting here that despite the Fifty Fathoms being a key focus for Blancpain in recent times, all four core collections from Blancpain today (Fifty Fathoms, Villeret, Ladybird and Air Command) have a strong heritage and have either been revamped or kept in the collection since their inception. As such, all Blancpain models created before the 1980’s come to the heritage department for expert servicing, and where required, restoration.

The Restoration Process

For any new arrival at Le Brassus, the timepieces must undergo a multi-dimensional analysis to ensure the watch is genuine. This technical diagnostic analysis results in a report replete with photographs of the case, dial (including hands), case back and movement. The next step brings the watchmaker and the owner into close contact. How far should the restoration go? Is the case scratched? (For example, a diving watch subject to both military and professional diving use for nearly a half century will probably exhibit scratching.) To what degree should the scratches be addressed? Blancpain’s philosophy is to recommend minimum intervention. Polishing to remove all scratches would likely go too far and dull or even remove engravings on the case back and, perhaps worse, alter slightly the shape of the case.

Virtually, all owners of vintage pieces agree with this light-touch approach. The same thinking applies to the dial. Gentle cleaning is usually advised if markings have slightly deteriorated because of age. Repainting would not only rob the watch of the patina of age, but it would destroy its legitimacy as a vintage piece. These issues and the choices are always presented to the owner before they make their decision. Then, a full service must cover the movement, case, dial, glass, and hands. For a vintage timepiece, in many instances, a movement restoration calls on the heritage watchmakers to employ their rare skills of component-making.

As you might imagine, the restoration process is complemented and indeed heavily influenced by historical research, as it helps Blancpain’s expert watchmakers and artisans stay faithful to the watches they are working on. Research provides insights into the era, design trends, and cultural context when each model was created; this in turn allows the heritage restoration department to learn about the intended purpose, audience, and significance of a given watch. Likewise, when it comes to authenticity and originality, research helps verify original components and ensures accurate restoration, in order to preserve the value and historical integrity of watches. This extends to understanding the materials and techniques used at the time, to ensure any work done remains as true to the original as possible.

Blancpain’s policy of only intervening when it is deemed necessary, helps ensure that restored pieces maintain their authenticity and historical significance. As does the application of the expert know how of those doing the restoration work, who use traditional techniques wherever possible. That’s why all interventions are always made by human beings, not computer-driven machines. The Blancpain ethos is that knowledge and practice are keys to guaranteeing the history and the DNA of these timepieces. Finally, the fully restored timepiece is reunited with its owner.

We trust you have enjoyed this special feature on the Blancpain’s Heritage Department and found it both insightful and informative. Should you be in the possession of a vintage Blancpain timepiece in need of restoration work or should you like to learn more, please visit your nearest Watches of Switzerland Boutique today and our expert staff will be more than pleased to assist you.

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OMEGA x The Olympics: Celebrating A Rich History Of Timekeeping https://www.watchswiss.com/perpetual/omega-x-the-olympics-history/ Wed, 10 Jul 2024 06:02:59 +0000 https://www.watchswiss.com/?post_type=cpt_news&p=71427 For close to a century, Swiss luxury watchmaker OMEGA has been at…

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For close to a century, Swiss luxury watchmaker OMEGA has been at the forefront of Olympic timekeeping, having served as the Official Timekeeper for almost every Olympic Games since the 1932 Los Angeles Games. Throughout this enduring partnership, OMEGA has continually pushed the boundaries of precision and innovation, introducing groundbreaking technologies that have transformed the way athletic performances are measured and viewed. From the introduction of the photoelectric cell in 1948 to the implementation of real-time motion sensors in 2018, OMEGA’s advancements have ensured unparalleled accuracy and reliability in Olympic timekeeping. This article delves into OMEGA’s storied history with the Olympics, highlighting the key contributions and technological milestones that have solidified its reputation as the gold standard in sports timekeeping.

Back To Where It All Began

It’s difficult to imagine today, but when the Summer Olympic Games were held in 1932, the transport links in California were remote and unreliable. At the same time, the world was collectively reeling from the dramatic effects of the Great Depression. As a result, athlete participation was the lowest since 1904. Yet, as we have all witnessed time and again, the Olympics has the unique ability to bring an entire country to its feet and showcase, even if just for a fleeting instant, what the human spirit is truly capable of. That is why, amidst this sea of uncertainty, the decision was taken for the first time to choose a single watch company to serve as the Official Timekeeper of the Olympic Games. Improving and elevating the quality and reliability of the results was seen as being of critical importance to the overall Olympic experience.

The traditional starting pistol used in 1932.
The traditional starting pistol used in 1932.

Even at this time, OMEGA’s name was already synonymous with precision. It had set numerous industry records and had also built a strong reputation in the world of sports timekeeping. With such compelling experience, the company was the most obvious and trusted choice to become Official Timekeeper of the Olympic Games in 1932. It’s no exaggeration to say that this single decision would become a defining moment in the history of sports measurement, setting the course for both an incredible future and an enduring partnership. One which – as you will shortly discover – has seen OMEGA constantly push itself to innovate new solutions in order to deliver ever greater levels of precision.

To Berlin in a suitcase.
To Berlin in a suitcase.

The beginning though – as beginnings often are – was relatively humble. For the 1932 Games, one OMEGA watchmaker travelled all the way from Bienne to Los Angeles armed with thirty stopwatches for the judges to operate. Each piece had been certified as a chronometer by the Observatory at Neuchâtel and was accurate to the nearest 1/10th of a second. Split-second functionality also meant that intermediate times could be recorded. The brand’s success at the event attracted great praise from many different quarters and established OMEGA’s name in Olympic Games history. Four years later, OMEGA watchmaker Paul-Louis Guignard boarded a train in Basel and headed to Berlin carrying a precious cargo of 185 stopwatches in his suitcase, more than six times the number used at the 1932 Olympics.

The Magic Eye

With the advent of World War II, the next Olympic Games would not take place for another twelve years. First up was the Winter Olympics in St Moritz, Switzerland. It was here that OMEGA debuted its most impressive sport timekeeping innovation yet: the Photoelectric Cell. Often referred to as one of OMEGA’s most significant innovations in the world of timekeeping, this technology replaced the traditional finish line tape with a highly-reactive beam of light. That meant that as soon as the first athlete crossed the finish line, their race time was electronically stopped and could be measured to the nearest 1/1000th of a second. Compared to the reactions of the human eye or the outdated Muybridge Wire, this was a significant improvement.

OMEGA's new photoelectric cell.
OMEGA’s new photoelectric cell.

OMEGA’s Photoelectric Cell was the world’s first independent, portable and water-resistant version of the technology and could be adjusted to resist both high and low outdoor temperatures. Remarkably though, even with their ultra-modern equipment, the five-man OMEGA team was still reliant on a more mechanical piece of technology in St. Moritz. Instead of having an office, they worked from a converted Chevrolet which had been equipped with special shock absorbers in order to protect the sensitive gadgets inside.

By the Summer Olympics held in London six months later, even greater advances had been made in the Photoelectric Cell. Now nicknamed the “Magic Eye”, the technology was used in conjunction with the world’s first slit photofinish camera. Developed by a British firm called “Race Finish Recording Company”, the Racend Timer recorded an image that could prove the exact finishing order of a close race. In London, the photofinish camera was only used to determine final rankings, not official results, but the breakthrough was still an important one, and by Helsinki in 1952, the camera had been renamed the OMEGA Racend Timer. These Games also marked the first time that OMEGA’s chronograph timers were linked to the starting pistol for a more accurate start.

OMEGA's Swim-Eight-O-Matic

Controversy In The Pool

Given Australia’s rich history in competitive swimming, it should come as no surprise that OMEGA really challenged itself to improve timekeeping in the pool at the 1956 Summer Games, held in Melbourne. Considering its watery environment, swimming had always posed a unique set of challenges for timekeepers. Finishes were often too close to call and precision could not be guaranteed. But in 1956, OMEGA was able to introduce a revolutionary piece of equipment that would forever change the future of timekeeping in the pool. The Swim Eight-O-Matic was the world’s first semi-automatic swimming timer. It allowed timekeepers to distinguish between any swimmers who finished at virtually the same time. This was particularly prescient as no less than an astonishing eight World Records were set in the pool in Melbourne.

OMEGA's last-lap bells_Melbourne 1956
OMEGA’s last-lap bells Melbourne 1956.

One of those was set in the women’s 100m backstroke final where two competitors each clocked the winning time. Judith Grinham of Great Britain and Carin Cone of the USA, hit the wall in a dead-heat time of 1 minute and 12.9 seconds. It was a World Record, but according to the rules, only one of the swimmers could claim the gold medal. OMEGA’s Swim Eight-O-Matic had fulfilled its role in providing an accurate finishing time for the two racers, but the final decision was down to the judges themselves. It took more than a quarter of an hour of deliberation and debate, with many of the judges divided on the outcome. In the end, a majority decision gave Grinham the victory while Cone took silver. She found herself in the unusual position of claiming a World Record but not the overall victory.

The Swim-Eight-O-Matic.

Controversy would continue to follow the swimming events into the 1960 Games in Rome. In fact, the outcome of the men’s 100m freestyle final forced OMEGA to completely rethink its timekeeping in the pool. Lance Larson and John Devitt finished at seemingly the same time, but the judges were steadfastly split on who had won. Despite strong timing evidence in Larson’s favour, the gold was unconvincingly given to Devitt which led to years of protests and appeals – all without change. There was a silver lining though, of sorts. This troubling incident was the ultimate catalyst for the development of OMEGA’s swimming “touch pads” that arrived in 1968. More on those in a moment.

The Omegascope

The Omegascope

First though, we would be remiss not to mention the 1964 Winter Olympics in Innsbruck. Despite there being virtually no snow due to an incredibly mild winter in Austria that year, the introduction of computer technology transformed the Winter Olympic Games and gave the competition a dynamic and modern edge. In the end, 40,000 cubic metres of snow was transported to the alpine skiing course, which is just as well as Innsbruck is often described as the first televised Olympic Games. Well over 200 hours of airtime was devoted to the events and dozens of television stations were positioned onsite.

Thanks to the new Omegascope, the viewing experience went one step further than ever before. This new piece of equipment introduced the concept of “real time” sports reporting by superimposing the times of athletes on the bottom of the screen. It revolutionised timekeeping yet again but also left no margin for error. OMEGA’s precision was now openly on display for millions to see, meaning that the brand had to get every measurement exactly right. Never had spectators outside a venue been so quickly and well-informed about events taking place in sport.

OMEGA Photosprint
OMEGA Photosprint.

Touchpads Touch Down In Mexico City

The next big evolution for OMEGA came at the Mexico City Summer Olympic Games in 1968. This was the first Olympic Games in which the brand’s electronic timekeeping was officially used in all sports. On top of this, several new pieces of OMEGA equipment were introduced. Among them was the OMEGA Photosprint, used to film all runners as they crossed the finish line in athletics. The camera featured a tiny vertical opening and included a film strip with the time written on it. With this innovation, time became linked with photography, and modern sports timekeeping was born. Since the Photosprint could deliver developed pictures within 30 seconds, those responsible for the athletics events decided to take the big step of using automated timekeeping only.

OMEGA's Swimming Touchpads 1968
OMEGA’s Swimming Touchpads 1968.

Perhaps most notably, the Mexico Games saw the arrival of OMEGA’s Swimming Touchpads, considered to be one of the most pivotal moments in timekeeping history. The bright yellow pads were 90 cm high by 240 cm wide and two-thirds of their surface was immersed in the water. They reacted to the slightest of touches, so that when an athlete reached the finish, they were able to stop time with their own hands. Now, there was no disputing the precision of the result.

The changes didn’t stop there. An OMEGA loudspeaker was also linked to the starting pistol and placed behind each starting block so that all swimmers would hear the signal at the same moment. Finally, the Swim-O-Matic, successor to the Swim Eight-O-Matic, was introduced and was accurate to the nearest 1/1000th of a second. OMEGA had indeed conquered the myriad challenges of accurate timekeeping in water.

Los Angeles 1932 the Olympic Stadium
Los Angeles the Olympic Stadium.

No More False Starts

Throughout the ensuing years, OMEGA continued to innovate and refine its timekeeping advances at the intervening Olympic Games. The various achievements are too numerous to mention here, so instead we will skip ahead to the 1984 Summer Olympic Games in Los Angeles. It was here that the world witnessed what has been called OMEGA’s greatest victory in timekeeping; the introduction of the first false start detection system. The equipment was extremely sensitive. In fact, as soon as an athlete launched forward, their reaction time was triggered as their leg exerted 29kg (27kg for women) of pressure against the starting block. This was then displayed to timekeepers on a decisive graph. The runner was not allowed to move until 0.100 seconds after the start signal. If they measured even the slightest false start, it would be caught. OMEGA also installed loudspeakers behind each starting block so that competitors would hear the start signal at the exact same time. This ensured that the athletes’ performances could be compared evenly.

A similar false start system was included in swimming and its precision was able to rightly disqualify three relay teams in five finals. It’s worth noting that the technology had been quite controversial when it first appeared in the swimming events at the 1982 Commonwealth Games. Many disqualifications had occurred and the timekeeping team became the victims of various threats and assaults. Thankfully, by Los Angeles 1984, the innovation had been accepted and soon became an established part of Olympic Games events.

Quantum Timer
Quantum Timer.

A Quantum Of Timing

Fast forward another few decades and we are back in London for the 2012 Summer Olympic Games. Front and centre is OMEGA, ready to debut its new Quantum Timer. With an enhanced resolution of one millionth of a second, this was the beginning of a new generation of the brand’s timekeeping products. The resolution was 100 times greater than previous devices and, with a maximum variation of only one second out of every million seconds, it was five times more accurate. The precision of the device was achieved through the use of a Micro Crystal component embedded in the timer and it included 16 independent clocks, meaning that 16 separate running times could be physically implemented in the hardware and the information for each could be communicated to scoreboards or shown on television screens. It would be a real challenge to find a sport that this device could not time.

OMEGA Scan'O'Vision Myria
OMEGA Scan’O’Vision Myria.

Refusing to rest on its laurels, OMEGA brought an abundance of new technology to the Rio Summer Games just four years later. Perhaps gaining the most attention was the OMEGA Scan’O’Vision MYRIA. It was able to record up to 10,000 digital images per second as each athlete crossed the finish line, enabling judges to officially determine the champion of each race. Improved light sensitivity also meant that images were of higher quality than with previous versions. The next generation of Photocell technology was also introduced in Rio. Instead of two photocells, there were now four, all integrated into one unit. With four photocells in operation, more body patterns could be detected as athletes crossed the line which meant that a truly precise finishing time could be measured.

OMEGA's Scan-O-Vision images
OMEGA’s Scan-O-Vision images.

At the other end of the track, the starting blocks were enhanced with built-in sensors that measured an athlete’s force against the footrest 4,000 times per second. This “False Start Detection System” instantly sent the measurements to an on-site computer so that the starter could visually analyse the reaction in the case of a false start.

Unprecedented Performance Measurement

The vision for PyeongChang 2018 was “new horizons” and OMEGA certainly followed the theme with its own exciting technologies. High up in the mountains of South Korea, the era of “live competition data” began, enabling the Official Timekeeper to measure every part of an athlete’s performance. This modern approach changed the viewing experience and was the perfect fit for this youthful edition of the Olympic Winter Games, which included dynamic new events such as Big Air snowboarding. Of course, OMEGA’s famous precision was also never far from the action, with some incredibly close finishes recorded – especially in speed skating.

Alpine Skiing_motion sensor
Alpine Skiing motion sensor.

Likewise, Tokyo 2020 was another step forward for OMEGA in the development of its motion sensor and positioning systems. Throughout the two weeks, a comprehensive range of real-time data was captured, once again providing precise insight into the sporting events. Whether it was the live speeds of swimmers, the live positions of runners, or even the speed of a volleyball, the Official Timekeeper was able to track all the information and therefore tell the entire story of each event. Seven sports in Tokyo featured these revolutionary technologies, helping to continue the exciting new era that began at PyeongChang 2018.

OMEGA's countdown Clock in Paris
OMEGA’s countdown Clock in Paris.

Looking Ahead To Paris 2024

We hope by now it’s clear that OMEGA’s ongoing contributions to Olympic timekeeping involve continuous refinement and innovation. Each technological advancement aims to improve the accuracy, reliability, and fairness of timekeeping, ensuring that the best athletes are recognized for their true performance. OMEGA’s role in the Olympics has solidified its reputation as a leader in precision timekeeping and a crucial partner in the world of sports. Now, for the 31st time since 1932, OMEGA is performing its role as Official Timekeeper in all 329 Olympic events across 32 sports – followed by the Paralympic Games, beginning on August 28th.

Taking place in some of the city’s most iconic locations, Paris 2024 will signal the next leap forward in the field of modern timekeeping. Raising the standards of precision and performance, OMEGA will not only measure the results that separate gold, silver, and bronze, but will do so with the next generation of photofinish camera, and a wave of in-depth data collection that will show exactly how each event is won or lost.

OMEGA's photofinish results.
OMEGA’s photofinish results.

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Breguet’s Art Of Guilloché Engraving: A Masterclass https://www.watchswiss.com/perpetual/breguet-art-of-guilloche-masterclass/ Fri, 14 Jun 2024 06:34:23 +0000 https://www.watchswiss.com/?post_type=cpt_news&p=66517 Montres Breguet, a name synonymous with horological excellence, has long been revered…

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Montres Breguet, a name synonymous with horological excellence, has long been revered for its unparalleled mastery of guilloché — a centuries-old engraving technique that transforms watch dials into intricate works of art. Pioneered by the legendary watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century, the use of the rose engine lathe to create precise, repetitive patterns has become a hallmark of the brand. In 1999, when Breguet became a part of the Swatch Group, Mr. Nicolas G. Hayek invested heavily in the craft of guilloché – training artisans, and today Breguet has the biggest guilloché workshop in the industry. Breguet’s innovative integration of guilloché not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of its timepieces but also improves functionality by reducing glare and increasing legibility. Today, Breguet continues to blend traditional craftsmanship with modern technology, preserving the timeless beauty and meticulous artistry that define its watches. Read on to learn more about the history of this fascinating technique and discover why Breguet continues to employ it liberally in its expert watchmaking today.

 

What is guilloché’ engraving?

For those not familiar with the term ‘guilloché’, it’s worth spending a few moments exploring what it actually entails. In the simplest terms, guilloché is an intricate decorative technique used primarily in watchmaking (although it can be found in other fine crafts also), where a repetitive, engraved pattern is created on a metal surface. In essence, a series of very fine, precise lines form a pattern, such as tiny waves, spirals, or grids, that cover a surface, giving it a textured and reflective quality. It sounds simple enough but, it is a time-consuming and highly demanding process that takes years to master.

Guillochage Breguet Marine 5547 dial.
Guillochage Breguet Marine 5547 dial.

To create those very fine, precise lines a skilled artisan uses a special machine called a rose engine. This machine has various settings and templates (called rosettes) that guide a cutting tool over the metal, carving out the design. The patterns are not just for decoration; they also have practical benefits, like reducing glare on a watch dial, making it easier to read. It’s a slow process though and one which requires immense patience. Each pass of the cutting tool removes only a tiny amount of material, meaning that creating a single pattern can take several hours or even days. Likewise, consistency in the pattern is crucial. Any deviation or error can ruin the symmetry and overall appearance of the design, and in the case of Breguet’s exacting standards, could even necessitate discarding the work in progress and beginning again. A high level of attention to detail is a non-negotiable requirement for mastery of this craft, as well as a healthy dose of determination.

Guillochage Classique 9068 dial.
Guillochage Classique 9068 dial.

In sum, think of guilloche engraving as a way to add both beauty and function to an object, turning a plain surface into something visually stunning and unique. It turns a piece of metal, such as a dial blank, into a canvas and demands creative flair, an expert eye, and a steady, patient hand to painstakingly engrave fine, precise lines to create a piece of art that also serves a practical purpose.

 

Breguet Boutique Geneva Vintage Rose Engines
Breguet Boutique Geneva Vintage Rose Engines.

The Rose Engine Lathe

An ingenious invention, the rose engine consists of a spindle that holds the workpiece and a series of interchangeable rosette cams, each with a different pattern. The spindle is mounted on a rocking frame, allowing it to move back and forth in response to the contours of the cam. By changing the cam, the artisan can switch between different patterns, such as waves, spirals, or floral motifs. The cutting tool is mounted on a carriage that moves horizontally. This carriage can be adjusted to control the depth and position of the cut. As the spindle rotates and rocks back and forth, the cutting tool is guided over the surface of the workpiece, engraving the pattern dictated by the cam.

Breguet Manufacture Guillochage Atelier
Breguet Manufacture Guillochage Atelier.

The process is highly manual, requiring the artisan to constantly adjust and control the cutting tool and the movement of the spindle. The speed of rotation, the pressure applied, and the synchronization between the rocking motion and the cutting tool’s advancement all need to be meticulously controlled. Operating a rose engine for guilloché is a blend of art and science, requiring technical skill, artistic vision, and years of dedicated practice. The intricate patterns produced by this technique are a testament to the artisan’s mastery and the timeless beauty of hand-crafted horology.

Breguet Pocket watch No. 4691 - Dated 1831
Breguet Pocket watch No. 4691 – Dated 1831

 

The Abraham Louis Breguet Influence

Breguet’s founder and namesake Abraham Louis Breguet (1747 – 1823) didn’t invent the rose engine lathe – this achievement is commonly attributed to the Swiss-born mechanic and watchmaker, Jacob Auch, around the 1780s – however, he did play a key role in popularising its use in watchmaking. In fact, Breguet was among the first watchmakers to adopt the use of the rose lathe for creating guilloché patterns on watch dials, producing beautiful patterns that added depth, texture, and elegance to his watch dials. These patterns not only made the dials more attractive but also helped to diffuse light, reducing glare and improving legibility.

As with every aspect of his craft, Breguet set high standards for the use of guilloché in watchmaking. His use of the rose lathe was marked by exceptional precision and symmetry, with the techniques he developed influencing not only his contemporaries but also future generations of watchmakers. Many of the designs he developed are still used by Breguet today, as well as by other luxury watch brands that seek to emulate his level of craftsmanship.

The Breguet No. 5 - Perpétuelle pocket watch with "à toc" quarter repeater in 18K yellow gold. Dial in silvered gold, engine-turned by hand, with recessed subdial for the seconds. 60-hour power-reserve indicator and display of the phases and age of the moon. Chapter ring with Roman numerals engraved and painted black by hand.
The Breguet No. 5 – Perpétuelle pocket watch with “à toc” quarter repeater in 18K yellow gold. Dial in silvered gold, engine-turned by hand, with recessed subdial for the seconds. 60-hour power-reserve indicator and display of the phases and age of the moon. Chapter ring with Roman numerals engraved and painted black by hand.

Historical examples include the Breguet No. 5, which he created in 1794. It features a guilloché dial that showcases Breguet’s mastery of the rose lathe technique. The intricate patterns add both beauty and functionality to the timepiece. Likewise, one of A-L Breguet’s most famous creations, the Marie-Antoinette watch, features a richly decorated dial with guilloché patterns. This watch is a testament to Breguet’s skill and artistic vision.

Breguet Manufacture Guillochage Atelier

 

Montres Breguet and the Art of Guilloché

In contemporary Breguet watches, guilloché remains a prominent feature, symbolizing the brand’s commitment to traditional craftsmanship and elegance. The patterns are often applied to dials, rotors, and casebacks, enhancing both the visual appeal and the heritage value of the timepieces. Breguet has also pioneered techniques to create multi-layered guilloché patterns, adding depth and complexity to the designs. This involves layering different patterns on top of each other to produce a three-dimensional effect. This technique requires a high level of precision and coordination, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation.

Drawing heavily on the influence and handiwork of its namesake, Breguet employs a variety of guilloché patterns in its modern-day creations, each serving different aesthetic and functional purposes. Some of the more recognisable traditional patterns include:

Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727BR 12 9WU with Clous de Paris Guilloché
Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727BR 12 9WU with Clous de Paris Guilloché

• Clous de Paris (sometimes referred to as hobnail) – characterized by small, pyramid-shaped studs arranged in a grid pattern, it is used to add texture and depth, typically to a watch dial but also sometimes to the watch case itself.

Breguet Marine 5517 in titanium
Breguet Marine 5517 in titanium Sunburst Dial

• Sunburst or Radiating Lines – usually found on sub-dials or as a background to other dial elements, this technique calls for lines emanating from a central point, giving a sense of motion and vibrancy. A-L Breguet often used this style of guilloché to distinguish subdials from the main dial, a technique Montres Breguet continues to adopt to great effect today.

Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527BR 12 9WV with Waves or Wavy Line Guilloché
Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527BR 12 9WV with Waves or Wavy Line Guilloché

• Waves or Wavy Lines – In 1815, A-L Breguet obtained an official appointment as chronometer-maker to the French Navy, forever cementing the brand’s connection to the seas. This technique produces fluid, undulating patterns that mimic the appearance of waves and is prominently found on timepieces in Breguet’s contemporary Marine collection.

Breguet Classique 7137 7137BR 15 9VU with Basket Weave Guilloché

• Basket Weave – As the name suggests, this decorative technique is comprised of intersecting lines that create a woven appearance. It is extremely complex to produce and truly showcases the skill of the artisan at work.

Breguet has also been known to explore contemporary aesthetics, incorporating modern art and design elements into its guilloche engraving. Innovative designs include abstract patterns, modern geometric shapes, and even inspirations from nature and architecture.

The spectacular outcome of years of diligent development, the Breguet Double Tourbillon includes a hand-wound movement fitted with a pair of tourbillon regulators rotating on the hour axis.
The spectacular outcome of years of diligent development, the Breguet Double Tourbillon includes a hand-wound movement fitted with a pair of tourbillon regulators rotating on the hour axis.

No matter what pattern is used, Breguet has a rigorous quality control process to ensure that every guilloché design meets the brand’s exacting standards. The use of microscopes and other precision instruments during the engraving process ensures that even the smallest details are perfectly executed and each complete piece is meticulously inspected for uniformity, depth, and overall aesthetic quality.

Breguet Manufacture Guillochage Atelier
Breguet Manufacture Guillochage Atelier

Likewise, Breguet regularly invests in high-precision tools and machinery as well as in training new generations of artisans, ensuring that the knowledge and skills required for guilloché are passed down and preserved. This includes both traditional techniques and modern innovations. These training programs are essential for maintaining the high standards of craftsmanship that Breguet is known for.

Breguet Manufacture Guillochage Atelier

Breguet’s modern innovations in guilloche engraving reflect a harmonious blend of tradition and technology. By integrating advanced materials, tools, and techniques, Breguet continues to push the boundaries of what is possible in guilloché, while preserving the timeless beauty and craftsmanship that define the brand.

 

Discover Breguet Guilloché at Watches Of Switzerland Today

Watches of Switzerland is privileged to partner with Montres Breguet in Australia, offering a deep selection of models at our Sydney, Melbourne, and Perth boutiques. Book a private viewing with our knowledgeable consultants to truly appreciate the intricate beauty of these designs. With guilloché decorations showcased in all Montres Breguet collections, you’ll discover the ideal timepiece for yourself or a cherished companion.

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Timeless Craftsmanship: Breguet’s Art of Guilloché Engraving nonadult
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date’s Stunning Ocean-Grey Dial https://www.watchswiss.com/perpetual/jaeger-lecoultre-polaris-dates-stunning-ocean-grey-dial/ Wed, 29 May 2024 01:11:18 +0000 https://www.watchswiss.com/?post_type=cpt_news&p=65438 In the world of luxury timepieces, few names resonate with the same…

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In the world of luxury timepieces, few names resonate with the same level of prestige and innovation as Jaeger-LeCoultre. Known for their craftsmanship and designs, Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to push the boundaries of watchmaking. Today, Watches of Switzerland is thrilled to introduce the latest addition to their Polaris collection—the Polaris Date, now featuring a new gradient ocean-grey dial. This timepiece captures the essence of sporty sophistication and showcases Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to creating watches that are both functional and durable. Join us as we delve into the details of this watch, exploring its design, features, and what makes it a true standout in the world of horology.

With its highly legible functions, the Polaris Date boasts an elegant, sporty style.
With its highly legible functions, the Polaris Date boasts an elegant, sporty style.

 

The New Polaris Date: A Modern Classic

The latest addition to the Polaris collection is the new Polaris Date, a timepiece that epitomizes the essence of sporty sophistication for everyday adventures. This remarkable watch merges the practical functions and rugged durability of a sports watch with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s hallmark elegance and timeless design.

Its magnificent dial catches the eye: its ocean-grey color, the result of 35 successive coats of lacquer, its double gradation, its three levels of finishing: opaline flange, grained index disk and sunrayed center.
Its magnificent dial catches the eye: its ocean-grey color, the result of 35 successive coats of lacquer.

One of the most striking features of the new Polaris Date is its dial. Enhanced by skeletonized hands, bold Arabic numerals, and elongated trapezoid indexes, all coated in SuperLuminova for optimal legibility in low-light conditions, the dial captivates with its ocean-grey hue. Achieved through 35 layers of lacquer, it showcases a double gradation and three levels of finishing: an opaline flange, a grained index disk, and a sun-rayed center. Its in-house calibre 899 movement provides a 70-hour power reserve, allowing the wearer to enjoy their timepiece without interruption. The watch also features an easily interchangeable black rubber strap, making it perfect for everyday adventures.

At the heart of the Polaris Date, the in-house calibre 899 offers 70 hours of power reserve.
At the heart of the Polaris Date, the in-house calibre 899 offers 70 hours of power reserve.

The Polaris Collection

When Jaeger-LeCoultre revived the historic Polaris name in 2018, it redefined the modern sporty-elegant watch. The collection pays homage to the Maison’s iconic 1960s diving watches, featuring high-performing calibres and a distinct design that combines practicality and style. The Polaris collection is characterized by its off-centred crowns, taut lines, glass-box crystals, narrow bezels, and a dynamic mix of brushed and polished surfaces. These elements, along with the skeletonised hands, assertive Arabic numerals, and elongated trapezoid indexes coated in SuperLuminova, create a visually striking and highly legible dial.

In 1968, a new era was born with the launch of the Memovox Polaris, a watch housed in an unconventional large case, whose alarm function elevated the piece as an iconic diving watch.The intricate dial construction is enhanced by gradient colours and various decorative finishes such as opaline, graining, sunray-brushing, and snailing. These finishes are meticulously applied beneath a rich lacquer coating, adding depth and dynamism to the dials. The lacquering process involves multiple layers of colour and translucent lacquer, polished to a perfect finish.

In 1968, a new era was born with the launch of the Memovox Polaris, a watch housed in an unconventional large case, whose alarm function elevated the piece as an iconic diving watch.
 

Shop Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches of Switzerland

Immerse yourself in the sporty elegance of the Polaris Date, a timepiece that epitomizes unparalleled craftsmanship and timeless style. For the discerning collector, this watch is more than just an accessory—it’s a statement. Shop online or visit our boutiques to experience the elegance and masterful craftsmanship of Jaeger-LeCoultre firsthand.

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Vacheron Constantin Surpasses Its Own Record At Watches & Wonders 2024 https://www.watchswiss.com/perpetual/vacheron-constantin-surpasses-its-own-record-at-watches-wonders-2024/ Thu, 16 May 2024 00:35:55 +0000 https://www.watchswiss.com/?post_type=cpt_news&p=64098 As we continue our recap of the exciting new models unveiled at…

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As we continue our recap of the exciting new models unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, we turn our attention now to Vacheron Constantin. This year, the venerable Swiss Maison has unveiled a collection that seamlessly blends timeless elegance with groundbreaking complexity. The Overseas collection, known for its sporty sophistication, introduces new models that enhance its reputation for versatility and style. Meanwhile, the Patrimony line, a testament to classic watchmaking, showcases refined designs that pay homage to the brand’s storied heritage. The Égérie collection, designed with a feminine touch, offers exquisite pieces that are both contemporary and elegant. And, in undoubtedly the boldest display yet of Vacheron Constantin’s sublime mastery of both the technical and aesthetic aspects of watchmaking, the Maison debuted the Les Cabinotiers – The Berkley Grand Complication. A masterpiece in every sense of the word, this specially commissioned pocket watch boasts 63 complications, making it the most complicated timepiece ever. Read on for all the fascinating details.

Vacheron Constantin presents the world's most complicated watch. Comprising 63 horological complications and 2,877 components, it surpasses the record already held by the Maison with Reference 57260.
Vacheron Constantin presents the world’s most complicated watch. Comprising 63 horological complications and 2,877 components, it surpasses the record already held by the Maison with Reference 57260.

Les Cabinotiers – The Berkley Grand Complication

The Berkley Grand Complication may not be for sale – it was after all specially commissioned by American collector William R. Berkley – but that doesn’t mean we can’t still marvel at its fantastical complexity. Encapsulating an unprecedented 63 complications and 2,877 components, it surpasses Vacheron Constantin’s previous record-holder – the Reference 57260 – to take the mantle of world’s most complicated watch.

This perfectly elegant 18K white gold case features polished bezels on both sides. The winding crown is complemented by an aperture on the case middle, protected by a sapphire crystal, providing a view of the crown’s position when winding or setting the timepiece.
This perfectly elegant 18K white gold case features polished bezels on both sides. The winding crown is complemented by an aperture on the case middle, protected by a sapphire crystal, providing a view of the crown’s position when winding or setting the timepiece.

One of the standout features of the Berkley Grand Complication is the inclusion of the world’s first Chinese perpetual calendar. This calendar accounts for the complexities and irregularities of the Chinese lunar and solar cycles, displaying the date of the Chinese New Year and other key dates up to the year 2200. It also includes a traditional Gregorian perpetual calendar, a sky chart, a triple-axis tourbillon, and a grande sonnerie with a Westminster carillon chiming the tune sounded by the bells of Big Ben.

The watchmakers in charge of assembling the timepiece – and who also did most of the decoration – therefore had to be extremely meticulous. The result is a watch whose complexity contributes to its overall elegance and harmony.
The watchmakers in charge of assembling the timepiece – and who also did most of the decoration – therefore had to be extremely meticulous. The result is a watch whose complexity contributes to its overall elegance and harmony.

The Berkley Grand Complication is presented in a polished 18k white gold case, measuring an impressive 98mm in diameter and 50.55mm thick, and weighs nearly one kilogram. Its dual-face design showcases various astronomical indications on both sides, with intricate details such as the phases of the moon and a sky chart of the constellations visible from Shanghai​. Bringing the project to fruition required eleven years of development by a dedicated team of master watchmakers, including one full year dedicated to assembly. A well-known and very passionate collector, Mr Berkely will no doubt be delighted with the outcome of his most ambitious commission yet.

By endowing the dials of four pink gold models with an intense green colour, the Maison has enhanced the adventurous vocation of the Overseas collection.
By endowing the dials of four pink gold models with an intense green colour, the Maison has enhanced the adventurous vocation of the Overseas collection.

Overseas Collection

Outside of the Berkley Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin introduced a number of updates across several collections, including new variations of the Overseas Chronograph, Overseas Dual Time, and Overseas Self-Winding, all elegantly crafted in pink gold with striking green dials. Boasting sunburst finishes that play beautifully with the light, these models exude a fresh, luxurious aesthetic, combining the warmth of pink gold with the vibrancy of green. The pink gold cases are complemented by matching bracelets, which can be easily swapped with the included green leather and rubber straps, allowing collectors to customize their look.

The four new models come with an integrated pink gold bracelet featuring a triple-blade quick-release folding clasp. This system makes it possible to achieve an up to 4 mm larger wrist circumference by stretching the last one or even two links connected to the clasp of the rose gold bracelet.
The four new models come with an integrated pink gold bracelet featuring a triple-blade quick-release folding clasp. This system makes it possible to achieve an up to 4 mm larger wrist circumference by stretching the last one or even two links connected to the clasp of the rose gold bracelet.

The Overseas Chronograph (42.5mm), powered by the Calibre 5200, offers a sporty yet refined appeal, boasting a 52-hour power reserve and precise chronograph functionality. The Overseas Dual Time (41mm), equipped with the Calibre 5110 DT/2, enables wearers to keep track of two time zones simultaneously, making it an ideal companion for the modern traveller. Lastly, the Overseas Self-Winding (41mm), featuring the Calibre 5100, provides an understated elegance with its minimalist design and reliable automatic movement. All models in this collection come with a transparent sapphire case back, offering a glimpse into the meticulous craftsmanship of the in-house movements. Water-resistant to 150 meters, these watches are as functional as they are beautiful, embodying the spirit of adventure and elegance that defines the Overseas Collection.

The perfect balance between rounded curves and taut lines: inspired by the minimalist watches of the 1950s, the Patrimony collection has been celebrating purity of style and the quest for essentials for 20 years. New diameter, new dial and strap colours, customisation: the collection continues to be firmly rooted in the modernity of its era with three new models.
The perfect balance between rounded curves and taut lines: inspired by the minimalist watches of the 1950s, the Patrimony collection has been celebrating purity of style and the quest for essentials for 20 years. New diameter, new dial and strap colours, customisation: the collection continues to be firmly rooted in the modernity of its era with three new models.

Patrimony Collection

For the Patrimony collection, the story this year is all about Vacheron Constantin’s new old-silver-toned dials, which were debuted on both the Patrimony Moon Phase and the Patrimony Self-Winding. The Patrimony Moon Phase stands out with its refined moon phase and date display, powered by the Calibre 2460 R31L/2. This movement ensures precision and reliability, with a moon phase accurate to within one day every 122 years. The watch’s minimalist design includes slender hour markers and dauphine hands, which complement the subtlety of the silver-toned dial. The 42.5mm case, available in 18k white gold, provides a classic yet contemporary look, appealing to collectors who value understated elegance.

In addition to these stylistic evolutions, the alligator leather straps are available in original new azure blue or olive-green colours, adding a fresh touch to the naturally understated nature of the Patrimony.
In addition to these stylistic evolutions, the alligator leather straps are available in original new azure blue or olive-green colours, adding a fresh touch to the naturally understated nature of the Patrimony.

Even more understated, the Patrimony Self-Winding, driven by the Calibre 2450 Q6/3, maintains the collection’s tradition of timeless design with a focus on functionality. The old-silver-toned dial, adorned with simple baton markers and a date window at 6 o’clock, exudes a sense of purity and balance. The automatic movement offers a 40-hour power reserve and is visible through the sapphire case back, showcasing Vacheron Constantin’s meticulous craftsmanship. Available again in 18k white gold, this 39mm model is versatile and sophisticated, making it a suitable choice for both formal and casual occasions. These new additions to the Patrimony Collection embody the Maison’s dedication to classical watchmaking, appealing to collectors who appreciate the fusion of tradition and innovation.

Inspired by the refinement of Haute Couture and Vacheron Constantin's aesthetic heritage, the Égérie collection welcomes a moon phase watch issued in a 100-piece limited series developed with designer Yiqing Yin.
Inspired by the refinement of Haute Couture and Vacheron Constantin’s aesthetic heritage, the Égérie collection welcomes a moon phase watch issued in a 100-piece limited series developed with designer Yiqing Yin.

Égérie Collection

For its feminine Égérie collection, Vacheron Constantin has crafted something truly exquisite, in collaboration with famed designer Yiqing Yin: the limited edition Égérie Moon Phase. Presented in a 37mm round case crafted from 18K 5N pink gold, it captivates with its lilac mother-of-pearl dial with a pleated motif reminiscent of haute couture fabric. The moon phase display is surrounded by 36 round-cut diamonds, while the bezel is adorned with 58 brilliant-cut diamonds and the crown is set with a moonstone. The watch comes with three interchangeable straps: alligator, grained calfskin, and satin-effect calfskin, offering versatile elegance for various occasions.

If you can bring yourself to tear your eyes away from the dial and turn the watch over, you will be greeted by the sight of the in-house Calibre 1088 L, visible in all its glory through a sapphire caseback. In recognition of her contribution, Yiqing Yin’s name is engraved in full on the back, along with the number of this highly-exclusive 100-piece limited edition.

Round and devoid of anything superfluous, it embodies the quintessence of watchmaking classicism with its round case surrounded by a slender bezel, a slightly convex dial punctuated by slender hour-markers and a ‘pearl’ minutes track.
Round and devoid of anything superfluous, it embodies the quintessence of watchmaking classicism with its round case surrounded by a slender bezel, a slightly convex dial punctuated by slender hour-markers and a ‘pearl’ minutes track.

Available At Watches of Switzerland

As a long-time Brand partner of Vacheron Constantin here in Australia, Watches of Switzerland is pleased to be able to offer our esteemed clientele a selection of the most alluring pieces revealed so far. Available throughout the latter part of this year, please contact us to arrange private viewings.

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Tudor’s Pelagos FXD Chrono: “Cycling Edition” Unveiled https://www.watchswiss.com/perpetual/tudors-pelagos-fxd-chrono-cycling-edition-unveiled/ Mon, 06 May 2024 05:59:58 +0000 https://www.watchswiss.com/?post_type=cpt_news&p=61623 Introducing Tudor’s latest release: the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition”, crafted exclusively…

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Introducing Tudor’s latest release: the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition”, crafted exclusively for the riders of the TUDOR Pro Cycling Team. Designed to conquer the relentless challenges of professional cycling, this chronograph embodies the spirit of those who dare to compete in the world’s toughest races, including the prestigious Giro d’Italia.

Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono M25827KN-0001
The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “CYCLING EDITION”. Click here to shop now.

At the heart of professional cycling lies sheer determination and unwavering grit. Every pedal stroke pushes the limits of human endurance amidst the inherent risks of the sport. Tudor’s mission was clear: to engineer a timepiece that not only withstands the rigours of cycling but also enhances the rider’s experience. Inspired by the lightweight prowess of carbon fibre bikes, the Pelagos FXD Chrono features a robust carbon composite case fortified with titanium elements, ensuring unparalleled durability against the unpredictable terrains of cycling.

But durability alone isn’t sufficient; functionality is paramount. Typical chronographs cater to the speeds of automobiles, but the “Cycling Edition” breaks convention. Its innovative tachymeter scale, spiraling around the dial, is tailored to the sustained speeds of cyclists, enabling riders to effortlessly gauge their performance at a glance. With key features like a 43mm black matt-finished carbon composite case, a cycling-specific tachymeter scale, and luminescent ceramic composite hour markers, this timepiece is the epitome of performance and style.

Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono M25827KN-0001
Specifically engineered for riders of the TUDOR Pro Cycling Team. Click here to shop now.

The race-ready design extends to every detail. The matt black dial, adorned with striking red accents reminiscent of the TUDOR Pro Cycling Team colors, prioritizes legibility in any condition. The iconic “Snowflake” hands, a tribute to the Tudor heritage, boast Grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material, ensuring optimal visibility during the toughest rides. Moreover, the innovative fabric strap, woven with precision on 19th-century Jacquard looms, offers unparalleled comfort and robustness, making it ideal for enduring long hours on the bike.

Powering this watch is the Manufacture Calibre MT5813, a testament to precision and reliability. Certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), it exceeds industry standards with a -2 to +4 seconds’ variation per day. Crafted with a column wheel mechanism and vertical clutch, this high-performance movement is built to endure the most extreme conditions, a hallmark of Tudor’s commitment to excellence.

Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono CYCLING EDITION M25827KN-0001
A 1. 43mm black matt-finished carbon composite case with fixed strap bars. Click here to learn more.

At Tudor, quality is a non-negotiable. Every watch undergoes rigorous testing at the state-of-the-art Tudor Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland, ensuring unrivalled craftsmanship and precision. With a legacy spanning nearly a century, backed by the “Born To Dare” ethos, Tudor guarantees unparalleled performance and reliability, reflected in their five-year warranty.

The Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” is more than a timepiece; it’s a testament to the indomitable spirit of those who dare to push the boundaries of human achievement. With Tudor, embark on a journey of daring excellence. Discover this exciting new release at a Watches of Switzerland boutique near you.

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Hublot at Watches & Wonders https://www.watchswiss.com/perpetual/hublot-at-watches-and-wonders/ Thu, 02 May 2024 01:49:10 +0000 https://www.watchswiss.com/?post_type=cpt_news&p=61320 Today, we turn our spotlight to the new releases from a brand…

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Today, we turn our spotlight to the new releases from a brand that continuously challenges conventions and pushes the boundaries of design and technology. We are of course talking about Hublot, the Geneva-based manufacturer that has built its reputation on the fusion of tradition and innovation in the realm of luxury watchmaking. For true devotees, Hublot watches represent a lifestyle statement, embodying a spirit of modernity and individuality. From the iconic Big Bang to the avant-garde Spirit of Big Bang and Classic Fusion collections, each Hublot creation exudes a sense of exclusivity and sophistication, appealing to those with a discerning taste for luxury and innovation. For your reading (and viewing) pleasure, we highlight here a small selection of the exciting array of new pieces unveiled by the brand at this year’s Watches and Wonders in Geneva.
 
The Big Bang has introduced different variations of blue, grey and green. Then, in 2019, it presented a world first when the first brightly coloured ceramic was released: a vibrant red. The second of these achievements came in 2021, with a stunning yellow piece.
The Big Bang has introduced different variations of blue, grey and green. Then, in 2019, it presented a world first when the first brightly coloured ceramic was released: a vibrant red. The second of these achievements came in 2021, with a stunning yellow piece.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic and Dark Green Ceramic

This year a new ceramic colour is making its appearance at the heart of the Big Bang Unico: a vibrant orange, the result of a unique alchemy and a peerless resistance to shocks and scratches. A pioneer in the material, Hublot marked a world first in watches in 2019 when it debuted the first brightly coloured ceramic: a vibrant red. This was followed two years later by a stunning yellow piece. Not one to rest on their laurels, the brand continues to research and develop new colours, as attested to by this latest creation. For those looking for something a touch more understated, Hublot has also debuted a new version of the Big Bang Unico in dark green ceramic. Both cases show a polished finish and are paired with structured and lined rubber straps colour matched to the cases. Each is produced in a limited edition of 250 pieces.

The new Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic follows in the footsteps of its predecessors. It offers a unique, perfectly uniform colour, whatever exterior component it is used to adorn.
The new Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic follows in the footsteps of its predecessors. It offers a unique, perfectly uniform colour, whatever exterior component it is used to adorn.

From a technical standpoint, these models feature all the same characteristics of the Hublot Big Bang Unico collection. That means a 42mm case rated water resistant to 100m, complete with an open-worked dial with central time display powered by the in-house, Hub1280 Unico Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph Flyback Movement with Column Wheel. Visible through the sapphire glass on the case back, it’s finished in black for a striking contrast with the vibrant orange case or as a stealthy complement to the dark green ceramic.
 

A new frontier is reached in the art of sapphire - Pink Sapphire on the Big Bang
A new frontier is reached in the art of sapphire – Pink Sapphire on the Big Bang

Hublot Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire

Also joining the Hublot Big Bang Unico collection this year is the gorgeous Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire. As the name suggests, the entire 42mm case is hewn from polished pink sapphire crystal, another exotic material Hublot has routinely demonstrated its mastery of. Matching pink highlights adorn the open-worked dial, with a pink transparent structured lined rubber strap completing the look. Achingly beautiful in the flesh, this is one that needs to be seen to be fully appreciated. But with production limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, don’t expect to see too many in the wild.
 

On the right is the timepiece entirely navy blue, with a blue dial, perfectly in keeping with Hublot's original maritime spirit. On the left features a "Black Magic" – a style dear to Hublot which runs through all the Manufacture's collections. With a case, bracelet and dial in deepest black, this is the first Big Bang Black Magic ever created on a watch measuring 38 mm – a diameter previously only available on rare Classic Fusion models.
On the right is the Intergrated Time entirely in navy blue ceramic, with a blue dial, perfectly in keeping with Hublot’s original maritime spirit. On the left features a “Black Magic” – a style dear to Hublot which runs through all the Manufacture’s collections. With a case, bracelet and dial in deepest black, this is the first Big Bang Black Magic ever created on a watch measuring 38 mm – a diameter previously only available on rare Classic Fusion models.

Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only Blue Ceramic And Black Magic 38mm

Hublot has made several news additions to its Big Bang Integrated Time Only range this year and two of our standout favourites have to be the Blue Ceramic and the Black Magic. Both are offered in 38mm cases crafted entirely from satin-finished and polished ceramic – in your choice of either blue or black – and are worn on integrated bracelets crafted from the same material and held securely in place by a titanium deployant buckle clasp. The smaller case sizes and light weight nature of ceramic make these models suited to a variety of wrists and occasions, and the dials – in satin-finished blue sunray or polished black – are at once elegant and attractive, but also practical and legible. Providing the power is the HUB1115 self-winding movement, which offers approximately 48 hours of power reserve.
 

After 8 years of collaboration between Hublot and Maxime Plescia-Buchi, we finally have a creation in sapphire.
After 8 years of collaboration between Hublot and Maxime Plescia-Buchi, we finally have a creation in sapphire.

Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire

Hublot has been collaborating with Maxime Plescia-Büchi, the celebrated typographer, tattooist, artist, and founder of the multi-faceted creative agency Sang Bleu for eight years now, to truly astonishing effect. The latest progeny to emerge from this creative partnership is the exceptionally sculptural Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire, marking the first time there has been a Sang Bleu model in sapphire. Yes, at its core it remains a Spirit of Big Bang with its 42mm diameter and the soul of the barrel shape, but beyond that it’s not like any you have seen before. The watch has been incised, chiselled, angled and faceted by Sang Bleu, revealing and overlaying hexagons, rhombuses and triangles redrawing forms and volumes, feature by feature. The playful relief and depth in Maxime’s features takes on a new dimension, as the sapphire reveals an entirely new personality.

The sapphire now extends from the dial – which already revealed the HUB4700 self-winding skeleton chronograph movement through the disc hands designed by Sang Bleu – to the case and the bezel, enhancing the watch’s organic design.
The sapphire now extends from the dial – which already revealed the HUB4700 self-winding skeleton chronograph movement through the disc hands designed by Sang Bleu – to the case and the bezel, enhancing the watch’s organic design.

The complexity of the design, plus the demanding geometry of Maxim Plescia-Buchi’s polygonal tattooing, meant that Hublot once again had to push back the boundaries of machining sapphire. Under the impact of the sapphire’s transparency, the purity of the Sang Bleu features, which remain sharp and methodical, expresses itself here in an ultra-light minimalist style, both visually and on the wrist. Incredibly, thanks to 3D machining and over 100 hours of work, the Spirit of Big Bang Sapphire Sang Bleu is practically as hard and scratch-resistant as a diamond (9 on the Mohs scale, compared to 10 for diamonds). The only remaining non-transparent elements are the crown, the push buttons, the screws on the case, the 6 H-shaped screws on the bezel, and the folding clasp, all cut out of titanium, and the components of the HUB4700, a skeletonised automatic chronograph movement equipped with a silicon regulating element. Limited to 100 pieces, the Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire is sure to appeal to Hublot collectors.

There's no change on the movement side, with the HUB4700, a skeletonised automatic chronograph with date at 4.30, 50-hour power reserve and its oscillating weight redesigned in the Sang Bleu style.
There’s no change on the movement side, with the HUB4700, a skeletonised automatic chronograph with date at 4.30, 50-hour power reserve and its oscillating weight redesigned in the Sang Bleu style.

 

Available At Watches of Switzerland

As a long-time Brand partner of Hublot here in Australia, Watches of Switzerland is pleased to be able to offer our esteemed clientele a selection of the most alluring pieces revealed so far. Available throughout the latter part of this year, please contact us to arrange private viewings.

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